My article on how Champagne is starting to adapt to meet the
challenges of climate change is published this week in the Champagne Report,
sent out with the November issue of The Drinks Business. It’s a long, 10-page
feature, but then it’s a huge subject. The work going on looking at developing potentially
suitable new grape varieties to combat hotter and sunnier summers in Champagne,
is feature worthy alone. And I attempt to cover a lot more ground. This feature
was actually written back in March, but publication was unfortunately delayed
As this piece is looking much further ahead, hopefully that delay doesn’t make it any less newsworthy. In fact, since it was written, we have seen the earliest ever start to a harvest in Champagne, so this is likely to remain the biggest issue Champagne has to address over the next couple of decades.
On Friday 30 October I received a note from Hervé
Deschamps, the ever-smiling chef de cave at Perrier-Jouët, saying it was last day at
this famous house. Only the seventh cellarmaster since 1811, he’s worked at Perrier-Jouët for
37 years, the last 27 as the chef de cave. He joined in a great year for Champagne,
1983 and he leaves immediately after another, this time the third of a trio of fine
He’s been the creative spirit behind the wines, the
consistent presence at this historic house under four different ownerships, three
of them giants of the wine and spirits business in their time, Seagram, Allied
Domecq and currently Pernod Ricard. While they have guided the marketing strategy,
with variable success, he has sensibly been left to get on with making the wine.
Over the past three decades he’s also been the friendly, welcoming face of the
house, particularly for visiting journalists.
If the press has a good feeling about Perrier-Jouët, and I think
it’s fair to say they generally do, he has had had a lot to do with it. He’s seen
chef de caves at sister house G.H. Mumm come and go. While he’s ruled the roost
at 28 Avenue de Champagne, in Epernay, there have been five different occupants
there at 34 Rue du Champ de Mars
The role of cellar master has changed radically over the past three
decades. When Hervé started the job in the early nineties, he was not just
making the wine, he purchased the grapes and all the dry goods needed in champagne
production and he was also responsible for organising the considerably larger
workforce then employed in the cellars.
As he comments, in Susie Barrie’s podcast https://bit.ly/3l1RRc3 celebrating his time at
Perrier-Jouët, his predecessor only made one official trip outside Champagne during
his reign as cellar master. Hervé, on the other hand, reckons over the past two
decade or so, he’s spent 50-60 days a year travelling, principally to the brand’s
main markets of Japan, the USA and the UK.
I first met Hervé soon after he became chef de cave in the early
nineties and I have continued to meet and taste with him regularly in Epernay
and London, over the past two and a half decades. He’s never been anything other
than charming company, always smiling and at his happiest sharing a bottle of
his own wine.
Just a few years ago I asked Hervé for a brief summary of the Perrier-Jouët style. The thoughts he proffered were: “white flower, stylish and sea-salt”. I’d just been tasting the newly launched Belle Époque Brut Vintage 2008 with him and while that wasn’t exactly my tasting note, all those things are evident in the very fine, dazzling fresh 2008 release. It’s perfumed, with a noticeable grip and mid palate chalky intensity. And no-one would say it lacked style.
It plays between the elegance and freshness of Chardonnay from Cramant, Avize, Chouilly, Mesnil and Vertus, set against the power and structure of Mailly, Verzy and Verzenay Pinot Noir. “But don’t forget the 5% Dizy Pinot Meunier,” says Hérve. “It acts as a link between the two, like the hyphen between Perrier and Jouët.” A lovely descriptor, I’ve always thought.
I’ve been lucky enough to experience several vertical tastings of
Belle Époque with Hervé over the years. Notably in September 2006, we worked our
way back from 1999 white and rosé, through 1998, 1997. 1996, 1995, 1989, 1988, 1985
the first vintage he himself made and then on to ’82 and ’79.
But what I shall remember best is having a relaxed lunch with him on a summer’s day, on the terrace overlooking the glorious garden at Maison Belle Époque, sharing a glass of Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque Blanc de Blancs, his very own creation first made in 1993, specifically to celebrate the Millennium. His winning smile and infectious giggle will be sadly missed on future trips to Champagne.
Champagne sales in 2020 “may go back to where they were 30 years ago,” says Pol Roger CEO Laurent d’Harcourt. He made his comments on the current state of the champagne market during last weeks’ zoom tasting for the launch of Pol Roger 2013. A launch which, according to Pol’s UK MD James Simpson MW, represents “a return to proper, old fashioned vintage Pol with a proper backbone”. (To be reviewed on the What I’ve Been Tasting page shortly).
“The crisis we find today is worse for those brands involved in nightclubs, in bars, on airlines or duty-free and we are not exposed much in these sectors,” says d’Harcourt. “Generally, we are likely to see a decline of between 20-25%, perhaps 30% for some, but at Pol we expect to be around 10% down on a very good 2019. We aren’t too involved in restaurants and by-the-glass sales either, where you have to be very aggressive on price.”
While champagne sales generally may go back to 1990 levels – when shipments were at 232.4m bottles as the market headed into a slump for five years following the oil crisis, before restarting a long and steady period of growth in the mid-1990s – “at Pol Roger we’re only going back a few years, to the level in 2018,” d’Harcourt added. “We are befitting from the decision not to grow too much or too rapidly over the past few years and we are very happy about that today.”
The July and August figures for worldwide Champagne shipments continue to show a very slight improvement on the poor results in April and May 2020, as the sales decline softened in some markets with the summer easing of restrictions. While the monthly figure for July was down 11.8% on July 2019 in France, in August domestic shipments rose 15.3%. In the first 8 months of 2020 shipments to France are down 21% and while the decline is slowing – it was -25.8% January-July and -29.2% in the first six months – this already represents a loss of some 14.5m bottles. And champagne sales are heavily weighted towards the final quarter of the year.
France still accounts for around 49% of shipments by volume, if rather less by value, although its share of the overall market has been declining steadily since 2010. The Champenois will be more concerned about the drop in exports, with those shipped within the wider European market down 27.8% in the first eight months of 2020, a loss of 10.5m bottles and shipments to further flung destinations, the USA, Japan and Australia being the three most significant, dropping 28.3% January to August, a further loss of just over 14m bottles.
At the moment the MAT figure in the 12 months to the end of August records a drop of 40.54m bottles but in fact the market is down 39.02m bottles in the first eight months of 2020, and the last four months of the year typically accounts for around half the annual shipments. So, if the market doesn’t decline beyond 1990 levels, there will be some relief in Champagne.
Early conversations with the major brands in the UK (a detailed report on this will follow soon on the site), suggests those who have kept faith in the UK consumers’ predilection for this singular French fizz will be vindicated, and Pol is of course among them. It remains their number one export market.
“We are very happy to have a strong presence and a strong team in the UK, most of our markets are quite solid,” says d’Harcourt. “The wines are on allocation, including in the UK. This year because of the decrease in sales in France, we can be more positive in response to requests [for more stock] from some of these smaller, solid markets.”
The CIVC has released its own, short report about the 2020 harvest just completed in Champagne. It describes it as a “splendid harvest” beginning on 17 August in the most forward vineyards, the earliest official start ever (though in fact some producers started picking even earlier in the Côte des Bar on 13 August, as we have already reported here).
The Champagne harvest began yesterday (13 August) in the Côte des Bars village of Buxeuil, which is one of the southernmost villages in the whole Champagne appellation, close to Les Riceys, Champagne’s largest single cru. This is the sixth harvest since the Millennium that has started in August and beats the record for the earliest ever start – in 2018 the secateurs were out in the Grand Cru of Ambonnay on 17 August — by four whole days. The producer involved is Noël Leblond-Lenoir, a grower with 13 hectares of vineyard mainly planted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir though they also have some Pinot Blanc. Continue reading “Earliest ever start to Champagne harvest”
By Giles Fallowfield, Published by Harpers online: 24 July, 2020 https://bit.ly/340BmIb
The Champenois are in disarray as efforts to reach agreement on the level of yield for the 2020 harvest failed at a recent meeting of the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC) in Epernay.
Giles Fallowfield explains the background to the extraordinarily difficult decision these two warring officials in Champagne are expected to announce later today. My copy as it appeared on JancisRobinson.com on the morning of 22 July 2020 (https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/champagne-turmoil ) Guest contributor 22 Jul 2020
Champagne shipments slumped in April and May as the fallout from the COVID-19 pandemic has hit worldwide sales. Champagne’s governing body the CIVC (the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne or Continue reading “Champagne in turmoil”
The chef de cave merry-go-round in Champagne continues apace. It must be a bit of blow for Moët-Hennessy to lose their highest profile head winemaker, Dominique Demarville so soon after the retirement of the experienced Richard Geoffroy at Dom Pérignon (at the end of 2018). Veuve Clicquot winemakers don’t usually depart the job until they retire, they are not meant to leave in their prime and at 53 Demarville is one of the most experienced winemakers in the appellation, arguably at the peak of his powers.
Veuve Clicquot cellar master Dominique Demarville is leaving the company at the end of the year to take up the position as chef de cave at Laurent-Perrier. Recruited to replace him at Clicquot by the retiring cellar master Jacques Peters back in 2006, Demarville has apparently again been sought out by the soon to retire incumbent chef de cave at Laurent-Perrier, Michel Fauconnet, planning his succession. Fauconnet is 67 this year and has worked at Laurent-Perrier since 1973.